Why Keys Snap — and Why the Lock Type Changes Everything
Keys break for predictable reasons: metal fatigue from years of daily use, a lock cylinder that has stiffened due to worn tumblers or lack of lubrication, a moment of applied force in the wrong direction, or a key that was already cracked from a previous bend. The fracture point is almost always near the shoulder — the widest part of the blade — which means the broken piece typically sits right at or just inside the keyway. That position is both the good news and the bad news: the fragment is close to the surface, but it is also wedged between the shear line and the cylinder walls where the spring-loaded pins are pressing against it. Without the right tools and an understanding of the specific cylinder design, even a careful amateur attempt can compress the pins further and lock the fragment in place permanently. Understanding the lock type is the first thing a trained technician evaluates on arrival.
A standard door knob lock and a mortise lock behave very differently during extraction. Mortise locks — the rectangular cartridge locks set into the body of the door, common on older Franklin Township homes, multi-family buildings, and commercial properties throughout Somerset County — have a longer, more enclosed keyway and heavier internal components. The fragment may have room to shift laterally inside the mortise cylinder, which can actually simplify extraction if approached correctly, but the deeper housing also makes visual access harder. Commercial locksmith calls involving mortise lock cylinders on office suites or retail storefronts along New Brunswick city-adjacent corridors are among the more technically demanding extraction jobs. Vehicle ignitions add another layer: the keyway is small, the cylinder is often behind a steering column shroud, and automakers design these cylinders to resist tampering, which is exactly why a trained technician with ignition-specific extractors is the right call rather than a hardware store pick set.